Ireland

When I think about Ireland two things come to mind; Guinness & rain. Ireland is by far one of the rainiest, gloomy and cloudy countries I have ever travelled through yet, it also one of the most welcoming. Even though the Irish rarely see the sun it must still shine within their hearts because it is one of the friendliest countries I have travelled.  You could ask anyone in the streets for directions, whether it's a man in a double breasted suit or one wearing a stained up football jersey with all his front teeth missing, & both will take the time to properly answer your question or point you in the right direction. Irish people are never short for words and are always willing to point you in the direction of the best local pub. But let me take a step and tell you how I ended up in Ireland. 

It has always been high on my bucket list to drink a pint of Guinness in Ireland on St. Patrick's Day so, once we landed in the United Kingdom I wasn't going to pass up a chance to check that one off (especially with Ireland only a short boat ride way).  Liam and I left the Lakes District and flew directly into Dublin, Ireland where we had arranged to meet my father for eleven days of Irish 'Craic!'.  

We spent our first day in Dublin meeting my Hungarian cousin Georgina, hitting up the tourist hot spots like the Temple Bar and downing pints of smooth, rich, delicious Guinness. That evening was the day before the 6 Nations Ireland vs France game so all the pubs were packed with French rugby fans some of whom shared their wine and gave us their berets. It was a great evening and the excitement over the 6 Nations Rugby game gave Dublin an electrifying buzz.

The following morning we departed Dublin for our first stop; the beautiful seaside city of Galway. We spent our time there visiting the Cliffs of Moher, watching the 6 Nations Rugby Game at local sports pub called Fagans and wandering through the city exploring local sites. 

After Galway, we ventured North to a small town called Westport where we stopped for the sole mission of climbing Croagh Patrick - the holiest mountain in Ireland! The day we arrived in Westport, we simply dropped our bags at the B & B and headed straight for the mountain. With climbing polls in hand and our backpacks full of water we began the 734m ascent to the summit. It was a challenging climb with various weather conditions that pummelled down on us from sunshine, to ferocious winds, to rain and even snow. Regardless of what mother nature threw our way we carried on and achieved our goal. At the summit we celebrated by replenishing our bodies and drinking a little wine with an 11th century monastery by our side. After the treacherous descent we further rewarded ourselves by visiting the mountain side pub with a large pint of Guinness. (I have to mention that my father who is 64 years old, took on that mountain climb like it was a walk in the park! He never once complained and was energetic enough to joke that we had started our on the stairway to heaven but ended up on the highway to hell).

That night in Westport we stumbled upon a cute little pizzeria with a chef who was more chatty than the pizza was good. After we had tied up our bill he sent us in the right direction for some local Irish Folk music at Matt Molloy's pub, that he said "would be packed by ten" on a Tuesday night.  Of course we couldn't refuse and soon found ourselves warming the bar stools as the band wandered in. The 'band' consisted of 6 men who played in a little corner every night, only different songs depending on which one of them showed up. Two of the band members were 76 and 84 years old!  It was 'brilliant' Irish Folk music, in a local Irish pub setting, with the best Guinness I've ever had. It was definitely one of the best nights of my trip, especially because I had the two men I love to share it with me.

After Westport we headed North East to Belfast where we planned on visiting the Giants Causeway. It's an area consisting of about 40,000 interlocking columns resulting from volcanic eruptions about 50 - 60 million years ago! It is a fascinating world heritage listed site with the perfect combination of history and child like imagination.  We checked off the Giants Causeway and also found another great pub, not quite the equal to Westport but still great 'Craic!'. We met a few locals, shared many pints and sang along to Irish folk songs hours after Cinderella became a pumpkin. 

March 17th approached us faster than we had imagined it would. Eleven days in Ireland seems like a long time but time never lingers when you want it to. We made our way back to Dublin on the evening of March 16th for a family and friends dinner at my cousin Georgina's place. Georgina made us the most elaborate feast, one fit for kings and queens. We had a splendid time wining and dining and are so grateful for all the effort she put in - thank you Georgina. All in all, Ireland was the 'Craic!', the people were 'grand' and the Guinness was...You guessed it 'brilliant.' :-) 

Temple Bar in Dublin, Ireland.
The day Liam and I met up with my dad. 

Liam and my Dad sharing a pint in Dublin.

Meeting my cousin Georgina in Dublin. 

The Cliffs of Moher close to Galway, Ireland.

A view of the Cliffs of Moher.

Soooooo winnnnndddyyy.

Another view of the Cliffs of Moher.

Exploring Galway city.

Heading into the cathedral in Galway.

Houses made for leprechauns!

Cheers! Kings Head pub in Galway.

A pint of Guinness by the fire at the 'Skeff'. 

Croagh Patrick is Ireland's holiest mountain.
St. Patrick is said to have spent 40 days and 40 nights on its summit
fasting, praying and doing pennace during Lent of 441 AD.

Beginning our climb!

Half way there...

Almost at the top.
This section was super steep and challenging. 

We made it!
Props to my 64 year old father who took on this 4 hour climb
and made it seem easy.

The 3 of us on the top, standing outside an 11th century monastery.

Liam and I at the top of Croagh Patrick in Westport, Ireland.

A view of the mountain clouding over on our way down.

Proper Irish Folk music in a little, local pub in Westport Ireland.
The band consisted of 6 gentlemen, two of whom where 76 and 84!

Myself standing on the Giants Causeway in County Down, Northern Ireland 

In the boot of the giant at the Giant's Causeway.

My Dad, Georgina (Hungarian cousin of mine) and me at Georgina's place.

Final night in Ireland.
My Dad, Liam, Georgina and I at Johnny Fox's pub.
The highest pub in Dublin, Ireland.

United Kingdom

When I began imagining my trip around the world the United Kingdom did not make my travel itinerary, not because I didn't consider the country travel worthy but because I wanted to wait until I  could financially travel the country in style. I had always envisioned myself travelling through the United Kingdom, and Europe for that matter, when I was retired with pockets full of money so, I could eat in all the fancy restaurants and stay in posh hotels (it's good to dream right?). Anyways, after meeting Liam my travel plans took a drastic change and I soon found myself going through customs at the London Heathrow Airport.

When you set out to complete a trip of this magnitude most people have a desire to visit the place in which their ancestors where born.  I had the opportunity to do this while in Hungary and due to Liam being part Australian, and part British, he had a desire to visit the town in which his Dad was born in England and meet his English side of the family. Not only did Liam want to visit the place where his roots resided he had been gently plotting the idea of us living in London pretty much since the day we met, thus we set off to England to meet his family and for me to get a feel for London life.

We spent five weeks in total in the United Kingdom which was only made possible by the wonderful friends and family who hosted us. Our first three weeks were spent in London where we split our time staying with two of Liam's friends from Australia, Joe & Shelley, and his Mom's cousin Victor & his daughter Fiona.  Due to our London hosts making us feel so welcome it really felt like we were living in London rather than just visiting.  We lived in real houses, with real people, doing real people activities versus living out of a backpack, staying in hostels and doing only tourist activities.  We were able to do so much while in London so I'll just state what really stands out for me.
      Practiced Bikram for two weeks in various studios around London.
      Went to see Phantom of the Opera at Her Majesty's Theatre.
      Saw a comedy show in Twickenhem & went to trivia night in a local pub.
      Connected with Canadian friend and shared some pints while catching up.
      Ate proper fish and chips in a proper British pub.
      Re-connected with two fellow yogi's from teacher training.
      Spent a Saturday watching The Walking Dead.
      Went to Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey!  and...
      Had tea in Hyde Park and visited Camden Market & Convent Garden.

The list could continue on and on but lets just say we got a good feel of London life and Liam's dream of living there may one day become reality as I thoroughly enjoyed London and the buzz of the city is intoxicating.  Perhaps one day we will rent a shoe box apartment there and eat fish and chips daily (it's good to dream right?).

After we pulled ourselves away from London we ventured up to Sheffield to meet Liam's English side of the family. They meet us at the train station and drove us to a small community outside of Sheffield called Rotherham. We arrived at a beautiful pub called Earl of Strafford where we stayed for five nights. Our room was above the pub so we spent our days meeting family members, eating the delicious home cooked pub meals and drinking pints of beer to keep us warm. During our time there we also had the opportunity to go to see Sheffield Wednesday, Liam's team and my first football game! It was a great experience and Sheffield Wednesday won but before we knew it our time in Sheffield was up and we were on the train headed for our next adventure.

The Lakes District was by far one of the most beautiful, calm, relaxing places I have visited during my trip. We were lucky enough to have an entire week to explore the Lakes District and spend time with our fabulous host Michelle Whalley. Liam and Michelle lived together in a share home in Melbourne, Australia five years ago. For them it was a great opportunity to re-connect and catch-up but for me I met someone who quickly became a lifelong friend. Throughout the last year I have had the gift of meeting and being hosted by many generous, accommodating and welcoming people however, Michelle definitely stands out in my mind. Not only did I feel as though Michelle was a long lost friend, she demonstrated a level of generosity you don't see very often.

During our time in the Lakes District we explored Windermere with Michelle's sister Alison, hiked mountains in Coniston and the Ingleton Waterfalls, drove to Manchester for the Manchester vs. Real Madrid game, had a spa day at the Marriott and had a backyard bonfire with Michelle's closest friends. Needless to say we were nowhere near ready to leave when our day of departure arrived but as they say all good things must come to an end.

Exploring London. Outside the Houses of Parliament 

After having tea in Hyde Park

Walking around the streets of London at night

Spent a cold afternoon exploring Covent Garden Market 

We spent many hours riding the tube. A picture was necessary.

Trivia Night with friends whom we stayed with in London.
Thanks again Joe and Shelley 

While in London Liam and I spent two weeks doing Bikram.
I got the chance to explore a few different studios.
Above is Bikram Yoga Soho where a good friend from TT Simone teaches.
It was great to see you again friend! 

Bikram Yoga Wimbledon.
Owned by a fellow TT graduate.
Beautiful space Raj! 

After seeing Phantom of the Opera in London

Connecting with old Canadian friends.
Myself and Kim in London.

The pub Liam and I stayed at for a few days in Sheffield. 

Outside the Sheffield Wednesday Football Pitch

Liam with some of his family at the Earl of Strafford Pub

On the boat in Windermere 

Liam and I hiking the Ingleton Waterfalls in the Lakes District with friends 

A view of our hike by the Ingleton Waterfalls 

A visit to the local candy store with the crew after our hike.

Liam hiking up a mountain in Coniston, Lakes District 

The top of the trail in Coniston, Lakes District.

A view of Coniston from the hike down. 

Dear Mom

Dear Mommy,

Today is your birthday and you would be turning 62 but it's been nine years though since we celebrated your birthday and nine years since I've seen you, hugged you or felt a mothers love.  I miss you everyday Mommy but birthdays and Christmas are the hardest. These anniversary dates remind me of your continued absence in my life. I miss you so much Mommy. Everyday.

Sometimes I wonder what we would be doing today if you were alive. How would we celebrate your birthday and would you be excited about reaching 62? Would there be cake and presents? Wine and singing? I wonder where in the world we would be on your birthday and who would be celebrating with us but, Mommy your not here!

There is no celebration of your birthday, no gifts, no cake, or singing. It seems like no one even remembers anymore that today is your birthday but that's what time does to people Mommy. We heal, we move on and then we forget but Mommy I haven't forgotten. Everyday I think of you and wonder so many things.

I wonder if you would be proud of me and the life I have chosen to live. The decisions I have made and the of the woman I have become. I have met a man Mommy and he has changed my life. I'm in love and I wish you could meet him Mommy. I think you would really like him! So much has happened in nine years Mommy, you have missed so much and there is so much I wish I could share with you.

After we lost you to ALS my whole life changed Mommy. You need to know that, how hard you fought to stay alive and how much you suffered during those six years changed me fundamentally. Your strength and your will to live made me see life differently. I didn't realise it at the time Mommy but, your death gave me the gift of gratitude for life. Daddy and I witnessed your suffering day after day for six years but now I never complain about my own life Mommy. I always say 'thank you' for my health because I watched your body disintegrate Mommy to the point where you were trapped within it.
I realise the importance of being kind to people Mommy and giving them a listening ear or a dollar from my pocket because the kindness shown to us in our hour of need was unforgettable. It is because of how your disease Mommy and how it made you walked so funny and talked so funny that I never judge anyone anymore Mommy.
But really Mommy, it's because of losing you that I appreciate everyday of my life.
Every.
Single.
Day.

Mommy. 

Happy Birthday.
Love Leah 

Suffer & Listen

You ask me about my trip around the world.
You ask me how it was? You state that I must have met some pretty amazing people and seen some remarkable things.
You've been on the road for so long you exclaim, of course you must have changed!  
Please tell me about your adventure you say.
Tell me, tell me, tell me your story.

And so I ask, what do you want to know? Well you reply;
"What was your favourite country?"

I breathe. Mentally search my memory and try to pick out a story that I think will satisfy you.
Yet, as I search your eyes in a brief but desperate panic for the answer that will most satisfy you, I realise the process is a lost cause and exhale to regurgitate whatever comes to mind.

Maybe its the taj maha in India, riding in a hot air balloon in Cappadocia, climbing the great wall of china, jumping off the Macau tower, or the sacrifice I witnessed everyday by originally people like you and me.  Of course you wanna hear about all the beautiful things the world has to offer and turn your head to the sacrifice. To the suffering. To the pain.
You take another sip of your beer, check your iphone and change the subject.

I bite my lip and fight back the anger rising in my heart but my mind screams; why! Why do you ask me about my trip and the world if you don't wanna know how it truly is? If you don't wanna know the truth. Why! Why do you even ask?

You continue to talk to me while checking your facebook, listening to the ending of my story and attempting to appear interested yet, in my heart I know the truth. I know you wish I would stop talking about sad stories and move on to things that make you laugh. Things that make YOU happy.

With all my might I try to move on to a more cheerful topic but I can feel my legs shaking under the table. My hands quickly settle on top of my thighs in an attempt to calm them but the shake goes straight to my heart and a single ear forms in the corner of my eye. I bite the inside of my lip, until I taste blood, and try to fight back the dam of tears which are on the break of overflowing.

The topic quickly gets changed to sporting events, food, or boozing adventures and the conversation flows onwards. I quietly stand up and remove myself from the table with the excuse to pee but really it's an excuse to pull myself away from the cloudiness of tears slowly overflowing my eyes.
With my bare ass on the toilet, I finally allow the dam to break and the pain flood my heart. My tears fall on the bathroom floor, like snowflakes from heaven, soft, gently and quietly barely touching the earth. Regardless they fall and it's in these moments where I stop shaking and realise I've seen too much of the world.

I've seen too much of the world not to care anymore. 

Taiwan

After three weeks in the Philippines, Liam and I ventured off to Taiwan for ten days. Our flight landed in the capital city of Taipei where we spent a few days exploring all the major touristy sites. We went to the National Palace Museum, Taipei 101, 228 Peace Memorial Park, Shilin Night Market, & various temples scattered across the city. We ate freshly made dumplings and drank bubble teas daily, bought fresh fruit from the markets for breakfast and wandered night markets until the late evening. The days passed quickly as we fell into tune with the Taipei way of life and the energy of the city. After a few days we pulled ourselves away from Taipei and headed down the East coast of the Island to Taitung city. 

Taitung moved at a much slower pace than Taipei yet, we found ourselves enjoying the city just as much. The night markets were plentiful, the food was delicious and the locals welcoming. Even though we only knew a few words of Mandarin we found ways to communicate & connect with the local people, all of whom were extremely patience and generous to us. We took a few days in Taitung to explore but also to prepare ourselves for the ferry to Green Island. The horror stories of the 'barf barge' had made there way to our ears and I was terrified of the 50 minutes of complete torture I would have to endure. Lonely Planet states that the ferry from Taitung to Green Island makes the majority of people extremely seasick, even on the best of conditions. Thus, when one gets motion sickness on almost everything that moves, even escalators and tubes, you inevitably know you will be puking your guts out. 

On the morning we boarded the ferry I refused to eat or drink anything, even water, and took two motion sickness tablets. The first few minutes of the ferry felt like a gentle roller coaster but then my body began to sweat, shake and begin projecting anything in my stomach. I'm not sure which was worse, the convulsions of my body attempting to relieve itself from the complete pain or hearing and seeing everyone else puking up their breakfast. People were puking on the floor, in buckets, on themselves and many, many, people had their heads half stuck in plastic bags. Needless to say, whenever I think of Taiwan my first memory will always be the ferry ride from Taitung to Green Island. 

The ferry ride proved to be worth the torture. The island is remarkably beautiful.  We spent our days riding a scooter around the 20 km island, attempting to hike different paths, exploring the lookouts and relaxing in the saltwater hot springs by the sea. Our evenings were consumed with eating fresh sashimi,  rice and bubble teas. When it was time to leave I had mentally and emotionally prepared myself for the ferry ride back to the main land however, the Gods must have been on my side because the seas were so still the ocean looked like glass. We arrived back on the main land with our stomach contents still safely intact and began the trip back to Taipei to catch our flight for the next adventure. 

In our hostel in  Taipei  

Outside the Xingtian Temple in Taipei 

Heading to the market 

The Shilin Night market streets  

Trying out all the local street foods at the Shilin Market 

7/11 egg anyone?

Outside the National Palace Museum.
Which holds the largest collection of ancient Chinese artifacts.

Taipei 101 - The second tallest building in the world.

In the 228 Peace Memorial Park in Taipei, Taiwan 

Liam's first bubble tea in Taitung, Taiwan 

Eating local food in Taitung, Taiwan 

Taitung cakes, like a pancake with cream and red bean filling.

Made fresh before your eyes.  

The barf barge to Green Island. Worst ferry experience of my life.
People puking on the floor, in buckets and on themselves. 

Exploring Green Island.

Many beautiful lookout points on Green Island.
This was one of them. 

At the top of the lookout. 

Can you see the yellow jacket?

The prison on Green Island.
Green Island first served an an isolated spot and place for exile for political prisoners. 

Local people making fun of the islands history. 

Liam at the rescue! ha ha sorry had to include this one.  

The streets of Green Island. 

Zhaori Saltwater Hot Springs beside on ocean on Green Island

Liam and I in the hot springs. 

Had one night in a very fancy hotel in Shanghai.
A much needed escape from dorms. 

Beer with breakfast in Shanghai airport.