Wednesday, 20 June 2012

The Story Behind The Ink

Colleen Patricia Sommerfield (nee Cram) 

On my inside, left, forearm, where her disease started
As many people already know (via facebook) I got my first tattoo yesterday in Singapore. A lot of people have been sending me messages of support, love, encouragement, as well as, sharing their own personal stories of loss and hardship. In addition, people are asking me the meaning of the ink and who the person was. To answer every ones questions and provide the background story this is the most appropriate method.

Colleen Patricia Sommerfield (nee Cram) was my mother. The anniversary of her death was eight years ago as of June 18, 2012. She passed away from a disease called Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (ALS), sometimes better known as Lou Gehrig's disease. ALS is a rapid and progressive, neuromuscular disease which leads to paralysis of the voluntary muscles. Essentially you end up unable to talk, walk, eat, scratch, poop, write, sit, or even move but your mind stays the completely the same. My mother once described it to me as being trapped within your own body like a prison. She left this world a week before my high school graduation and three weeks before my eighteenth birthday, yet we were suppose to lose her five years prior, however we underestimated her determination....

When I was in grade six my mother first developed symptoms of the disease in her left wrist which doctors thought was carpal tunnel. She struggled for weeks to get the key into our house lock or sign her name on a cheque. My mother was left-handed thus, simple, daily, tasks soon became a frustrating struggle. After weeks of tests, failed treatments, and misdiagnoses, doctors finally diagnosed her with ALS with a six month prognosis. Once the initial shock had hit the Sommerfield and Cram families, my parents pulled me out of school and we went travelling together.  We went on a cruise, lived in Florida for awhile and simply spent time together processing the future challenge ahead of us. I distinctively remember that on one of our family trips my mother said to me, "I will be at your high school graduation". My response was "No Mom, that's not possible. That is six years away and the doctors gave you six months.". Little did I know but my mother was one of the most determined people I have/will ever meet. Although it would have been physically impossible for her to attend my grad she made it close enough to see my dress and accept that her daughter had reached one of life's many mile stones.

It was my mothers wish to die at home and my father and I, with the help of many others (family, friends, social workers, home-care helpers, hospice workers, nurses, and doctors) made that possible. For six years we took care of her every need and attempted to make her as comfortable as possible. We figured out schedules for visitors, rotations for aid workers, modified our home, developed methods of communication and adjusted our personal lives. That all sounds so simple in writing but in reality it was so much more difficult. As we approached the last few weeks of her life, my father and I ensured that one of us was always around. Although my mother had clearly stated she did not, by any means, want my father or I around when she took her last breath, we were determined for her not to be alone.

One day my high school called me stating that I had to bring in a baby picture for my graduation table. They had been waiting weeks for it (as I had stopped going to school) and could not wait any longer. My father was out biking (aka de-stressing) so I kissed my mother, told her I loved her, would be back in five minutes, and informed the nurse. I drove as fast as possible to the school, ran inside, dropped off the picture and raced home. Upon returning home, my father was in the door way, still in his bike gear, with a crying nurse by his side. The expression on his face was one of death. An expression that only those who have lost someone close to them truly understand. The grief is so deep it sucks the light from your eyes and pulls your heart into the pit of your stomach. I knew immediately what had happened. During those five minutes, that I left her alone, she slipped into another world, one in which we could not follow, no matter how desperately I wanted to. I was immediately filled with an overwhelming amount of grief, pain and regret. It was my shift and I had left her alone. It took me years to forgive myself and accept that she had waited for those five minutes so our last memory wouldn't be her last breath. My mother hadn't been without either my father or I, for weeks, months, maybe even a year, she had patiently waited until she was alone and felt it was safe to finally let go.

I would pay, give or do anything to see my mother one more time. To ask her if she is proud of me and to tell her that I love her but I would not change the life experience that came with losing her. That experience transformed me into the person who I am today. I understand things, and see life in a way, that unfortunately most never do. Even during death she taught me the most important of life's lessons. She showed me first hand true love, dedication, determination, faith, patience, inner strength, and the power of ones' mind. The gift of life is so delicate and precious that we must never take it for granted and health is often something we only appreciate in its absence. After eight years of going through the stages of grief, over, and over, and over again, I am finally able to tell this story. My heart is finally able to communicate the loss, and the gifts, that came with losing my mother. In many ways, I radiate out everything that she was and live my life in harmony with the many strengths and vast wisdom she gave me. In the end, I got my mothers named tattooed on my skin because it represents so much more than just a name. It is a reminder of everything written above and after eight years I am now able to bear on my skin what so strongly resides within my heart.






Sunday, 17 June 2012

Malaysia


It is truly remarkable how the universe gives us exactly what we need, when we need it, regardless of whether or not we are aware of it.


As I boarded the plane to Kuala Lumpur (KL) my heart was heavy with as I left behind those whom I had grown so close to, yet, I forced myself to stay positive and reached out into the unknown for something new. I was given back exactly what my heart desired; fellow travellers to explore the beautiful country of Malaysia with. Regardless of how I met them they were the perfect people to share my time with.

KL is another big city with the usual attractions: night markets; museums; zoos; local food markets; caves; shopping centres; and the usual feel of an overcrowded city. What made KL remarkable was the connection given to me by my good friend back home Nathan Lo. He connected me with a local, Sam Dang, whom lived in Canada and actually went to the same university as me (what a small world!). On my second night in KL, myself and two lads I met, went out and met Sam. At first he ensured we saw the big sites of KL and then took us to a night food market. He ordered up an ray of different local food dishes. It was one of the best meals I have had since leaving home. We spent the entire night with Sam, as he graciously showed us around KL and ensured that we had the best possible time we could. The generosity he showed us was unlike anything I have witness from someone who knew me for only a few hours. From the bottom of my heart thank you Sam! I know you strongly prefer never to go back to Winnipeg but if you do please let me return the favour.

The following day I headed up the coast via plane to the Perhentian Islands with Clemens Riebenbauer. The two of us had met my first night in KL in our dorm room.  We decided to escape the big city and booked a flight up the coast to hang out on an island for a week. This proved to be something I needed more than I had known.

The last two years of my life were complete madness with very few moments to stop a think or even sleep. I moved to Ottawa two years ago to complete my dietetic internship with my ex-boyfriend. We are expected to work full time (for free) while writing a thesis in the evenings. In addition, I taught and practiced Bikram Yoga everyday after the studio opened. After graduating I started working (virtually the next day) with the aspiration of becoming a good Dietitian. While working full time as a Registered Dietitian I continued to teach 3 - 8 classes a week and take as many as possible, plus attempting to maintain some level of a social life. Somewhere during all the madness my ex and I lost each other and I moved out.

As I sat down the beach looking out at the crystal clear water the reality of my past and present life came flooding in. My mind and soul was overwhelmed with thoughts, feelings, memories and emotions. If there was any moment that I needed a face from home it was during that week, however I knew the only was out was through. So I started to read again, something I hadn't done in two years, I wrote in my journal again and I listened. Thought by thought, memory by memory, chapter by chapter I processed everything my mind released. In many ways I believe my mind locked everything in a box and waited for me to slow down until it gave me back the key. If there is any place to come down it would be in the Perhentian Islands. Some nights I slept like a baby while others I woke screaming from nightmares that I can't remember. For six days I simply laid on the beach with a book, my journal and music. I met a German girl, Doro, laying on the beach one day and she soon became my companion and the perfect person to ride the waves with. There was often hours where I wouldn't speak as I escaped into my own mind but she was always right beside me when I came back down to earth. Although I rarely spoke of the journey going on within my own mind, the bits I did share she actually listened and provided the advice I most needed to hear. As we watched our last sunset I felt as though my past had finally been digested, my mind emptied and the nightmares gone.

KL Streets

Large monkey God outside the caves in KL
MONKEYS!
260 steps to the caves in the heat of the day in KL
Before climbing up.
At the entrance of the caves
In KL outside the twin towers
The twin towers! Super cool at night! Definitely a must see in KL.
Dinner with Sam :)
Clemens and Silvan having beers with Sam in KL
View of the Island - Coral Beach
View from our room :)We stayed at Senja Guesthouse. Awesome resort. 






Clemens and I on Coral Beach
BBQ at night on the beach with local seafood

Local Dude, Doro (Dorothy), Clemens, and myself having dinner on the beach

Dorothy playing the guitar on the beach at night

For Stacey :)

Chilling out watching movies on the beach at night
Sunsets

Saturday, 9 June 2012

I love Laos


Prior to leaving on this adventure fellow travellers always raved about Laos. Now I understand why and completely agree. The country and the people are phenomenal. There is something unique about Laos that can't be captured with words. Even though I thoroughly enjoyed Vietnam and Cambodia, Laos is a country I would love to visit again  one day.

Our journey to Laos was a long one. We took a 12 hour bus ride from Siem Reap to Bangkok. Waited 4 hours and then took a 16 hour sleeper train from Bangkok to the capital of Laos. We were all in desperate need of a shower but ended up in the dirtiest hostel I have ever seen. It smelt like mold, there was water all over the floor and the shower looked like it hadn't been cleaned in months. We attempted to make our selves slightly cleaner but with little success we left to fill our bellies with local food. After refuelling we headed for the next leg of our trip. The bus ride to
Louangphrabang was another long one and I got no sleep secondary to the constant twists and turns.  When we arrived in Louangphrabang I pulled up my socks (not figuratively) and prepared myself for our next adventure. We found a great hostel (outside picture included) with clean, beautiful double rooms for $7.50 each. 
(I figure its best to start including the accommodations I choose as many people are messaging me about details on whether or not the ones I choose are worth the time). 

Louangphrabang is a chill town with a strong French influence. The food is awesome and there is also great wine! Huge plus after drinking cheap beers for 4 weeks. In Louangphrabang we did a half day trip to the beautiful water falls, and of course, saw some more temples. We have seen so many temples that now they all look the same. 
The following day we did an elephant tour. We rode elephants in the jungle, learnt how to command them, swam with them and fed them. After the elephants we took a small motor boat and visited a few local villages. It was neat to see how the locals truly live. We even witnessed a village wedding. I didn't take any pictures as I felt it wasn't respectful as we were already walking through their backyards. The entire day was a grand experience and I highly recommend all of the above in  Louangphrabang. 
Furthermore, there is a night market in Louangphrabang where you can get a plate of local food for around $2.00.  You are allowed to fill the plate with as much as you like. Great way for travellers to stay on budget and taste the local delights. In the evenings we visited a few local pubs but the only real place to party in Louangphrabang is at the bowling alley. The entire town, like many places in Vietnam & Cambodia, as a curfew. Therefore, after all the local pubs close at 11pm everyone gets in tuk tuks and heads to the bow ling alley to drink cheap beers and pretend to be good at bowling.

After Louangphrabang we headed down to Vang Vieng for the tubing experience of the life time. We had to take another bus (sigh sigh) and due to my horrible experiences on sleeper buses I opted to try a Valium. Gravol does absolutely nothing on Laos roads as they are the absolute worst. At one point during our travels I took three gravols with no success so, Stevie found me a local pharmacy in Louangphrabang and I bought some valium. After taking two I was out like a light. We were dropped on the side of the road in the rain at 3am and I was a complete zombie. Thank goodness for my amazing travel buddies who got us home safe. If you get bad motion sickness like myself, Valium does help make the Laos bus rides at least somewhat bearable but make sure you have good travel friends or you'll miss your stop. Needless to say we arrived, got to our hostel and slept till the sun came up.  
I didn't take any pictures in Vang Vieng as my camera is already in rough shape and there was just too much water to risk it. We planned on staying for 2 days and ended up staying for 4 nights. It is one of the craziest party places I have ever been. One night I remember riding home on the top of a tuk tuk (sorry Dad). 
The first day we decided to rent tubes however only made it to the first two bars, lost our tubes, our deposits but woke up with some awesome memories. The next day we skipped out on the tubes and just experienced the various bars along the river. On the third day we finally got tubes and made it down the whole river. It is a beautiful ride down and just at the end it started to rain harder than I have ever seen rain. That night we made it to the bucket bar and smile bar. We met so many awesome people from all over the world in Vang Vieng. I look forward to crossing paths with many of them again soon.
After Vang Vieng I took a bus alone down to the capital to meet up with Cindy Qu for our last night together before going our separate ways. Stevie stayed in Vang Vieng and Nick had a flight back to Germany on the 6th. Cindy and I had a great last dinner at a local restaurant and discussing our favourite memories, moments, and friends we made on our journey together. 



Collecting flags for every country I visit!

Waterfalls in Louangphrabang

Cindy and I at the waterfalls in Louangphrabang

More falls, with a swinging rope to jump in!

Steve and I on the elephant

Nick and Cindy on the elephants!

Steve representing communism

The elephant Steve and I rode and fed

Heading into the water....

You ride the elephants out of the water on their bear backs and then they sit down to let you off :)

Team partyfloor at a local village on the bridge. Every rainy season the bridge gets washed away and re-built.
Attempting to turn Stevie into a coffee lover while he represents communisms as usual.

Louangphrabang village street

Cindy, Nick and I at another temple..


Stevie outside another temple

The art inside the temple.


Local crepes! Nutella and banana

Eating my first crepe

Local market in Louangphrabang

Our hostel in Louangphrabang

Stevie on our last sleeper bus (VIP) to tubing! 
 
Sorry there is no pictures of tubing in Vang Vieng but ill get some from Cindy and Stevie soon and post them :) This is the only one I have via facebook....






Friday, 8 June 2012

4 to 1

I'll never know why the desire to write comes to me when I am unable to sleep but it always the case. I lay there, tossing and turning, my mind writing stories, thoughts, feelings, and then my fingers feel the enormous urge to type.

My heart will not stop thinking about team party floor. I feel like tears are boiling up in the bottom of my heart, ready to burst through my eyes at any moment, leaving me a complete mess in my hostel bed. There is this overwhelming feeling of loss without Cindy, Steve and Nick by my side. We travelled together for 4 - 5 weeks spending 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, completely together. There was rarely a moment than any of us were alone. In many ways I spent more time with those three people than I have with some of my best friends from back home. We learnt the ins and outs of each of our personalities. What makes us cranky, how much sleep we need, where we can sleep, how much food we eat, sense of humour, strengths, weaknesses, dreams, desires, hopes, loves, pasts, pains and fears. In so many ways we took care of each other and shared the responsibilities of navigating the world. Together we broke all boundaries, all barriers and then created new ones. We made fun of each others countries, habits, speech patterns and accents but always with a hint of love.  This is one of the most beautiful things about travelling; the people you met and the relationships you create. The sad part, usually unspoken, is that all of these relationships have an expiry date. We all knew, without speaking, soon we would go our separate ways. With the simple hope that perhaps one day our paths will cross again. The memories team party floor created will stay with me forever. The people we met, the crazy things we did and the adventures we had. These memories are completely irreplaceable and no amount of money could ever purchase anything as valuable. And now with these words written, my fingers satisfied and my heart content, I must attempt to sleep. Tomorrow I meet a new friend whom was on my flight to Malaysia to explore the city and let the next adventure begin....




Monday, 28 May 2012

Cambodia


Our time in Cambodia was relatively short compared to Vietnam however, it was just as phenomenal.  We arrived in Phnom Penh (capital) late at night via bus from HCMC.  On the bus we met a British couple travelling in the same direction. Upon arrival in Phnom Penh we all jumped into our first tuk tuk and headed to our hostels. We stayed at a hostel called Me Mates (excellent hostel for those travelling – great staff and great food). After a long shower and some local food we met up with the British couple at our hostel. While chatting over beers in our room we had a slightly unexpected knock on the door. 

Background story; while working as a Registered Dietitian in Ottawa I often spoke of my plans of travel prior to leaving with fellow colleagues and nurses. One day a male nurse over head me speak of heading to South East Asia. He approached me and explained that he was from Cambodia and heading back home two weeks. We exchanged contact information and two months later I found myself greeting him at our hostel door. It is unbelievable and amazing how quickly connections and friendships can be formed. His name is Sam and he joined us that evening with the British couple, as well as, to the beach two days later.

The following day we explored Phnom Penh while waiting for our bus to the beach in the South. We checked out the Russian market and took a tuk tuk to see the Royal Palace. At the Russian Market you can purchase almost anything you can imagine. Cindy and I bought many much needed tanks, shirts and some jewelry for the soul. Note: Too hot for T-Shirts here, pants or anything with thick layers. Our group always jokes that its also too hot for boyfriends/girlfriends. A little inside group quote. Cindy and I bought "Same Same but Different" tanks which have now become a group uniform. Super cheesy but loads of fun!  After stocking up on clothes we headed down to the beach for a few days. 
On the bus to the beach we met two awesome Canadians – Scott and Allison! Yeah Canada! With the two extra Canadians we wander the beach strip until we found a cheap hostel right on the beach. Our room cost us $2.50 each for the night! It cost more to eat than it did to sleep! We all took a good part of the day to get some exercise on the beach. Cindy and I went for a run along the shore and followed up the run with a few push ups and stretches. Due to our lack of exercise over the last month all of our calves were sore for over two days post and we walked like gimps. That nigh, feeling like gods from our work out, we partied it up at the beach with Scott, Allison and some rockin Dutch lads and a lady we met at our hostel. That night I got my first battle wound when someone broke a glass and I sliced my big toe.

After our dose of the beach we headed back up to the capital to see the Killing Fields. This was a historical site that none of us wanted to see hung over. We spent the night chilling out in our room and catching up on some zzzzz’s to prepare ourselves for what we were about to see. The Killing Fields is unlike anything I have never experienced in my life. When you arrive they give you a head set and you walk yourself through the fields listening to a survivor’s dialogue/explanation. If you are not aware of what the Killing Fields in Cambodia are, as many don’t (myself included prior to travelling) educate yourself now. "If we do not learn our history we are doomed to repeat it". I will not post all the pictures on the Killing Fields as it will disturb many however there is one of a tree.....Please skip this section if you have a weak stomach...

At this 'killing tree' over 100 women and children were killed. The women were stripped, raped (even those pregnant), and put into the pit beside the tree. Soldiers grabbed babies by the legs and smashed their heads against the tree and threw them into the pit. There was a quote stated by those committing the killings “To dig up the grass one must remove even the roots”. Meaning if one member of a family was killed they were all killed to prevent people from wanting revenge.  No one was left alive. At night they would play music and run a diesel engine so those locked in the prisons couldn’t hear the killings that happened at night. 3 million Cambodians were killed by Cambodians (out of 8 million). If you ever come to Cambodia this is a difficult sight to see but it is an absolute must. Standing looking at the killing tree I had to listen to the recording twice because my mind could not believe the cruelty that humanity had done to itself at the foot of this tree. I cried and thanked the gods for being born into such a beautiful safe country. My prayer is that history will never repeat it self like this again.

On to the next stop....

We headed up North to Siem Reap to see the temples. Siem Reap is one of my favourite cities thus far. The energy here is awesome and the people are so friendly and helpful. We connected again with Scott and Allison, as well as, the Dutch and partied a little too hard last night. We stayed up till 4am, woke up at 5 am and headed out via tuk tuk to watch the run rise over the Angkor Wat temples. An absolute gorgeous moment of my life. We took a tuk tuk around for most of the day exploring all of the surrounding temples and sights. Which leads me to this moment right now...we just got back from renting our own mini theater and watching Red Tails (movie about WWII pilots). Tomorrow we wake at 6am and head for Bangkok. Unfortunately learnt yesterday that we can't get visas at the Cambodia-Laos border via bus therefore must head to Thailand and then the North of Laos....

My apologies on all the writing but there is much to say yet so much was left out. Everyday I find myself learning a little bit more, seeing a little bit more and living a little bit more. Everyday I find myself doing something that scares me, something that forces me out of my comfort zone or learning something that expands my mind. My mind, my beliefs and my character is changing day by day. The Leah who left Canada will not be the same one whom returns...




On the tuk tuk with Ruby from Britian in Phnom Penh

At a local pub in Phnom Penh with Sam & the British couple

The boys on the tuk tuk in Phnom Penh

The beach outside our door in Sihanoukville

The beach road in Sihanoukville

At dinner in Sihanoukville with Scott and Allie

Cindy Qu and I in Sihanoukville

Local hostel/pub in Sihanoukville. As Canadians we had to go for a beer.

The four Canadians at Blame Canada in Sihanoukville

Round one....

The Killing Fields in Phnom Penh or Genocidal Center

This one explains itself...

The pit were the children and women were thrown

Remains of some of those found in the Killing Fields. 17 stories high.

We rented bikes and explored the temples in the city of Siem Reap

The boys getting pedicures

Cindy Qu and I

Temple in the city of Siem Reap

Another temple...

Cindy Qu and I got massages for $6.00/hour. The pants were wore!

Yes - my nose is very red. Long story.

Pub in Siem Reap

At a pub in Siem Reap with some of the Dutch friends

The sunrise at Angkor Wat - Allison and Scott in the right hand corner

The sun rise

The inside of the Angkor Wat temple

Team party floor at the Angkor Wat temple

Cindy and I outside the Angkor Wat temple

At the top of one of the other temples

A menu at local restaurant. Had to show this one.

At the movies this evening